_photo _
By: Anonymous
Basics of film developing This step, basics of film developing, is very
important that can make a person becomes a great photography. After knowing
how to use the camera and how to take the pictures, the next step is learning
how to develop the film. Although the person has a good negative; but a person
doesn't have a good develop's skill ,or doesn't know the right way about
developing, how can that person makes a good picture. He/she should know how
to develop film and how to roll the film. Basic things about how to develop
the film are listed in the book entitled, INTRODUCTORY &PUBLICATIONS
PHOTOGRAPHY written by Dr.C. Wm. Horrell and Robert A.Steffes. That is 1.
Turn off all the lights in the darkroom and unwind the film. (Roll film,
except 35 mm, must be separated from the protective paper). And then unroll
the paper until the end of the film is reached which is not attached to the
paper and will, therefore, form its own roll when separated 2. Unroll
until the other end is reached, which is attached to the paper by tape. Tear
film gently from the paper when loading the film onto a reel or into a plastic
apron
3. At this point, handle film by the edges to avoid fingerprints on
the film's picture area
4. Fingerprints inflicted by pressure or moist
fingers may show up on the negative and in the finished print
5. To remove
the film from a 35 mm cartridge, pop off the retaining ring with a bottle
opener, allowing the roll to be removed
6. The film is now loaded on a
reel. This procedure is the best learned by practicing with a film provided
for this purpose, or an uncut, discarded strip of negetive. Cut the leader of
35mm film square with scissors before loading
7. Some tanks use plastic
aprons instead of reels
8. With the reel or plastic apron now placed in
the tank, and the cover secure, turn on the lights and proceed to develop the
film. needed chemicals and equipment are pictured below
9. Determine the
temperature of the developer, then in turn determine the time in minutes
necessary to develop the film using a time-temperature development chart. Set
timer for recommended time
10. Start the timer running. Then pour the
developer into the tank. Tilt the tank slightly so that air may escape. Don't
let an air-lock mislead into thinking the tank is full when it isn't
11.
Agitate the tank vigorously for the first 15 seconds. Then agitate for about 5
seconds during each 30 seconds of development thereafter
12. After
developing time has elapsed, pour developer back into the bottle. Do not pour
it into the sink unless using a " one-shot " developer
13. Immediately
fill the tank with a short stop rinse and agitate for about 30 seconds to a
minute. When acid rinse is omitted, the film should be rinsed in running water
for about 30 seconds
14. If acid rinse is to be re-used, pour it back into
the bottle; otherwise, pour it into the sink
15. Fill tank with fixing
bath solution and agitate vigorously for about 15 seconds. The lid may now be
removed from the tank. The film should be left on the reel in the tank for
twice the time it takes to clear the film of its milky appearance
16. This
illustration shows the milky appearance of a film just after it is placed in
the fixer. The film is opaque, and all of this mildness must be dissolved out
for proper fixation. Any hint of mildness, general or localized, is a positive
indication the film is insufficiently fixed. If the film takes too much time
to clear, the fixer is exhausted
17. When properly fixed, the film is
transparent and clear, as shown below
18. The fixer is then poured back
into the bottle. Do not pour it into the sink
19. Place the tank under a
cold water faucet or insert a hose into the center of the tank and wash for 15
or 20 minutes. If the wash water is colder than 65 degrees, it is advisable to
treat the films in a hypo clearing agent before washing
20. After the film
has been thoroughly washed, place about one drop of a wetting agent in the
tank of water. Agitate gently for about a minute. The wetting agent will help
prevent the formation of water marks on the film and speed up drying time.
Empty the tank of water and remove film from reel. Wash the wetting agent off
the tank, reel, or apron by rinsing thoroughly with hot water
21. Attach a
film clip to each end of the film and hang up to dry in a dust-free area.
Using a windshield wiper as a squeegee, make two wipes down the film on each
side before hanging up to dry. Warm forced air will speed film drying.
Ordinary electric fans or hair dryers are suitable in the absence of film
drying equipment. (Horrell 15) The steps taken to improve the product After
knowing how to use the camera,then it's time trying developing the film. The
person should do it many times until he/she is sure that he/she knows how to
do it in the right way. It's good to ask the mantel or the professer or
someone that knows how to develop the film to help at the first time doing it.
Because he/she can advise and tell what that person is doing wron, so that a
person will not make a serious mistake or break the equipment. The first time
it's hard to make a good picture, but if that person does it again and again,
that person will have more skill and get better. It takes a long time to be a
good film developer.The more times he/she does it, the more skill he/she will
have. Here are 15 hints for better film processing which was written by Dr. C.
Wm. Horrell and Robert A.Steffes in the book called, Introductory
&Publications Photography
1. Although the temperature of the developer is a
critical matter, it is not necessary to keep all processing solutions at the
same temperature. However, avoid temperature differences as great as 10
degrees. A sudden change in temperature between developer and rinse, for
example, may result in reticlation of the negatives. Reticulation is a
wrinkling or puckering of the emulsion which may ruin the image
2. When film
is wet, the emulsion is soft and delicate. Avoid touching the image area, or
allowing it to scrape along the bottom of sinks
3. Agitation recommendations
should be folllowed carefully. Don't place your films in the developer and
take a break while they are in the "soup". Stay with them and agitate at
regular intervals
4. A simple but effective method of altering the
temperature of the developer is to place the container in a pan cold, or hot
water, stirring with a thermometer to constantly check on it is change. If it
is impractical to alter the temperature, which is roughly between 65 and 75
degrees, the developing time can be altered to compensate for the deviation
from the optimum 65 degrees. Consult the time and temperature chart which
accompanies the film. The following is a typical time and temperature chart.
A typical time-temperature chart. Other film and developer combinations may
have time-temperature characteristics which differ sharply with this one, thus
the need for consulting the data sheet packed with film which usually contains
such a chart
In using the above chart, if the temperature of the developer
was 68 degrees, developing time would be 8 minutes. At 75 degrees, it would be
6 minutes. Caution! Development at too high temperatures may cuause the
emulsion to slide off the film base. If necessary to develop film above 75
degrees, a prehardener is required with most film-developer combinations
5.
Negatives accidentally placed in the acid rinse instead of the developer may
be transferred to the developer without serious harm if the acid rinse is
thoroughly washed out of the film. Likewise, negatives assidentally placed in
water first may be transferred to the developer without damage. But if he/she
accidentally immerse the film first in hypo, that person is almost sure to
ruin the film
6. When pouring developer into daylight developing tanks, tip
the tank slightly to allow air to escape, otherwise an air pocket inside the
tank may prevent the tank from filling. It may appear the tank is filled when
actually it isn't . This will result in uneven development, or complete lack
of development in some areas
7. When pouring solutions back into stock
bottles, be certain pouring into the proper bottle. If fixer is poured into
developer, the latter is ruined and should be discarded immediately. Developer
poured into fixer is less fatal to film, but fixer thus weakened should also
be discarded
8. Label all chemical bottles clearly, and read this label each
time using the bottle. If a solution is accidentally contaminated, inform the
instructor. Failure to do this may cause a person to ruin valuable negatives.
9. Check the level of the solutions in cut film developing tanks by inserting
and emptying the hanger in the tank to be certain the level is above the
hanger bar
10. When developing a quantity of cut films, count them when
placing them in the developer. Finding an undeveloped piece of film on the
loading bench after turning on the white lights 11. If the negatives are
consistently flat or thin even under well- controlled conditions, the cause
may be in development. With care and some experimentation he/she should either
increase the developing time beyond the recommendations or add additional
replenisher to the developer
12. If negatives are consistently contrasted,
decrease the developing time or dilute the developer with water generally no
more than 25% additional water, however
13. A safelight is safe only when
used with caution. Consult film data sheets for safelight inspection
recommendations
14. Developers are generally most economical and effectivve
when used with replenishers. When used without replenishers, developers
rapidly lose their strength, and unless a systematic increase in developing
time is observed, each subsequent film processed will become thinner and
flatter
15. When developing particularly important negatives, it may be wise
to process just one sheet of film first as a check on procedures and
chemicals. With roll film, some photograghers shoot the last one or two
exposures as test shots, taken under same conditions as the previsious
exposures. This portion of the roll and developed first. Should such a test
reveal a thin negative, some compensation can be made when developing the
remainder of the roll. (Horrell 19) Practicing is the most important thing in
becoming a good photographer or film developer. Besides that willing to be
what that person wants to be is also important. A person can't be a good
photography or film developer if that person doesn't love it. Everyone has the
own dream. So don't give up making the dream come true!
_Bibliography _
Bibliography Bruce, Helen Finn. Your Guide To Photography. New York: Barnes
& Noble, Inc., 1965. Goodwin, Karma. Personal interviews. March and April
1997. Horrell, Dr. C. Wm. and Robert A. Steffes. Introductory &Publications
Photography. Wisconsin: American Yearbook Company, 1972 . "Photography".
Internet site http://www.search.yahoo.com Science and Technology Illustrated
Volume 19. The World Around U.S
Encyclopaedia Britannica,Inc., 1768
Word Count: 1853
